WHAT'S IN A NAME

With the paisley design its trademark and color and prints in general its playground, ETRO is narrating a tale of love and beauty as told by Kean, son of the founder of the Italian fashion brand that bears his family's name.

By HASSAN AL-SALEH

The paisley, an organic and ornamental teardrop-shaped textile motif of Persian origin symbolizing fertility. A popular design in fashion for centuries with depth and complexity that has become shorthand for sophisticated, arty bohemianism. While it has been used decoratively for centuries, it is firmly ingrained in ETRO’s persona, a brand established in 1968 by Gerolamo “Gimmo” Etro, an Italian textile expert, avid traveller and father of four who looked to other cultures for print inspiration.

It has become an ironclad signature which is central to ETRO’s past, present and future. Now, the unofficial crest of the Etro family and brand. A legacy that is today being preserved by Gimmo’s children; Veronica who oversees the women’s collections Kean the menswear collections, and Jacopo the home collections. Together, they are reinforcing and protecting a singular vision first started by their father not only by re-interpreting and pushing the boundaries of the paisley but by sharing their love for Italian culture as an expression of local crafts and dialectal craftsmanship.

Fascinated by folklore, anthropology and ethnology, Kean considers himself more of a storyteller than a designer both in identity and spirit. At ETRO, he narrates a story of love and beauty; faithful by following his heart and surrounding himself, and us, with beauty.

ETRO is not a stereotypical Italian brand. Where does your passion for color, distinctive design and eclecticism stem from?
Passion for color, distinctive design, craftsmanship, and eclecticism are elements that are part of ETRO’s DNA since its foundation in 1968. 

My father, Gimmo Etro, had a strong passion for travel, art, and culture. He frequently flew overseas exploring faraway lands to discover and collect exotic treasures. On one of these journeys, an early 19th century Kashmir collection of Paisley shawls sparked his lifetime love for the design that has come to identify ETRO’s iconic and timeless aesthetic spanning 50 years of history.

But you are also profoundly and proudly Italian. How do you merge the two stark aesthetics and sensibilities to create your own?
I have always considered myself a supporter of “Made in Italy”, and particularly, I cherish all that is made with love and wisdom. When the exotic aesthetics merge with Italian craftsmanship the result is a world of color, liveliness and prints, connected to travel, to the encounter with nature, and the desire for freedom. Designs meet the contemporary, and craftsmanship allies with innovation.

How would you describe ETRO’s identity and how has it evolved under your creative stewardship?
I joined the company very young and at the beginning, everything was quite experimental. I always looked to create something more poetic, for me, it is never just about the clothing. I want to tell stories, to capture emotions, to deliver sensations. 

ETRO has very strong values and a defined identity that has evolved through time. Paisley, that has always been a symbol of ETRO, is the perfect example: each season is presented in a different way, experimenting with new techniques, combining it with unexpected patterns and prints, and playing with its shapes. 

What aspects of your own identity are you infusing into the brand?
It is an overall mixture. I bring together emotions, sensations, and ideas based on what I feel in the moment. I don’t like setting limits for myself…creativity has no limits. We, as human beings, continue to evolve, and so does our identity. It is a never-ending process of continuous discovery, and we might end up surprised by the person we turn out to be. This is what I try to infuse into the brand, a sense of continuity yet of unceasing disclosure. Of course, it is a journey of experimenting and exploring, where passion and creativity are the most important companions.

Do you believe that identity alone can ensure relevancy in a rapidly changing culture and market? What does it take?
In a rapidly-changing world, identity is key. We need to remain true to ourselves in order to transmit our values and beliefs in the most authentic way possible. We need to remain faithful to our past self to excel the future. But we never know what future holds for us, and so it is also vital being able to adapt to the new trends and needs of our society. For this reason, I believe that versatility and innovation are also essential to ensure relevancy. At ETRO, our mission is to deliver new unique pieces in order to satisfy the desires of new generations while at the same time reaming faithful to our values and heritage.

You pay particular attention to tradition and ancestry. How do you weave together these influences to create a modern vernacular?
Tradition and modernity can coexist, or better they need to do so, otherwise, we lose legitimacy. Since I joined the company, it has always been a priority for me to preserve and cultivate the beliefs and stylistic codes, outlined by my father and passed upon me and my brothers. Our ultimate goal is to improve and create timeless and quality pieces, focusing on innovation while remaining faithful to our heritage and searching for new sustainable techniques and materials.

Color has its own language. What does color mean to your personally? How are you using color to narrate your own story at ETRO? 
Color is a positive vibe; it is what makes our brand different from the others because we work on emphasizing it and stressing its importance. 

I would like to define color as a vibration of light, something that can change based on the perspective used. My idea is to enhance the way in which the customer can express himself wearing our products. I like creating garments with different nuances that never come as granted to our eyes.

I believe wearing color is self-empowering and it is a duty of mine to make our clients feel comfortable, confident and bold, just like the shades of colors we choose. 

Sustainability has long been the center of your practice. How is ETRO championing sustainability in fashion and what more does the industry need to do to close the gap?
At ETRO, sustainability is an issue close to our hearts. We are working hard on this aspect. We deeply understand the importance of being green and respectful towards the planet. There is still a lot to do and to work on. Somethings have been done already but sustainability practices should become a commitment of the entire fashion system to make it a value proposition of the brand. More work should be focused both on the use of recycled fabrics and in giving new life to deadstock through the upcycling process.

Working with family has its own set of advantages and challenges. Talk to us about some of them. How do you separate family relations from professional business relations?
We don’t. We have always been very close as a family and as a company, of course, this has helped us to cope with multiple situations. 

Nobody pushed us to join the company, this wish came from ourselves. We all understood the importance of continuing to grow what our father created and improve it as much as possible. During the pandemic, this kind of relationship grew even stronger, and so did our creativity. Perhaps our secret lies in the nuances of our personalities that come together like a puzzle to create something unexpected.

How do you keep your father’s legacy alive today while building your own?
I keep studying what he did, it is my starting point, and then I add my own vision of the world. I believe the heritage must be preserved, it represents our roots, but at the same time, we have to renovate, adapt to the time and understand that everything around us is constantly moving and that we need to go with the flow. When I start thinking about a new collection, I do bear in mind the fabrics of our archive and then I merge them with my ideas, my “craziness” and my impulsiveness. This sector needs audacity and bravery.

What do you hope to instill in future generations at ETRO?
ETRO has always relied on craftsmanship and “Made in Italy”. My goal is to pass the importance of these aspects to the younger generation, not only to enhance our brand but also for our country, a fulcrum of culture and artisanry that must be maintained and preserved. I aim to continue the values and beliefs of my family, celebrating the work started by my parents, and pass on the techniques and knowledge to the new generation. What I learned from my family is precious.