WHAT LIES BENEATH

Power design duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana express and satisfy man’s true hidden desires.

By HASSAN AL-SALEH


Two names, one powerhouse brand that is synonymous with bold Italian glamor. That is Dolce & Gabbana, the brainchild of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana founded in 1985.

Together, the Sicilian design duo have built an enduring billion-dollar global empire driven by their love of their homeland. Today, it remains fiercely independent to preserve the brand’s authenticity and creative integrity.

While the brand has evolved with the times, it has never forgotten its roots, crafting an unmistakable identity for itself. Perhaps nothing captures Dolce & Gabbana’s dreamy Mediterranean aesthetic, innovation and the finest of craftsmanship so spectacularly than the brand’s very own Alta Sartoria, a men’s collection that combines the artisan-meets-atelier values of couture with the bespoke philosophy of fine tailoring.

It is the pursuit of la dolce vita. Otherworldly opulence that enraptures the sensuality of lavish ornamentation drawing on centuries of artisanal skill to celebrate all things Italian.

You were one of the very first brands to launch couture for men with Alta Sartoria in 2015. What compelled you to take such a bold move?

DD: After having presented the first Alta Moda collection in Taormina in 2012 and having embarked on a long journey made of beauty and love for fashion, even the husbands of our customers started to show us their interest in special, unique garments, tailor-made for them in order to satisfy their hidden desires.

SG: History teaches us that man, by nature, has always chosen to celebrate time, a particular moment, by picking a special outfit. We saw it with the aristocracy, princes and maharajahs. Similarly, with Alta Sartoria we want to satisfy man's desire to feel unique with a proposal that is consistent with the DNA and values of Dolce&Gabbana.

Was it difficult to convince men to accept and adopt the concept?

DD: Not at all! Men, as much as women, dress primarily for themselves, to please themselves. Alta Sartoria is a pure expression of oneself, a dream made of fabric. Even if there are now fewer opportunities to show off evening dresses, we believe that in their private lives people will continue to seek, perhaps even more than before, a beautiful story, a dress or accessory that makes them feel at ease.

SG: Unlike women who approach Alta Moda for a special and unique occasion, men prefer to build a personal wardrobe, made of clothes that satisfy and talk about their lifestyle, their dreams.

Usually, men approach Alta Sartoria asking for a traditional suit, perhaps characterized by particular details. However, when the client relaxes and feels at ease, his personality and hedonism come out and it is in this moment that he really begins to appreciate the project and to ask for clothes, or accessories, in line with his passions and needs.

How does Alta Sartoria embolden your identity as an Italian fashion house?

DD: Alta Sartoria is not just a parade of beautiful dresses. It is a special moment, it is history, it is culture, it is a lifestyle, it is pure Italian spirit. Alta Sartoria represents the union of the traits that distinguishes and elevates Italy combining Italian artisan heritage, made up of tradition and local workers, unique in their kind and inimitable.

SG: For us, craftsmanship and tailoring are the most important values ​​of our work. It’s part of our roots, our DNA. Besides our ready to wear collections, in 2014 we created our service of Sartoria su Misura. Then, with Alta Sartoria, we fused creativity and invention into one-of-a-kind pieces. What lies behind the purchase of these garments is not the necessity to dress, but the search for personal fulfilment...it is a completely different need.

How different is Alta Sartoria from made-to-measure? How has it evolved since you first launched?

DD: We think that “made-to-measure” leads to a well-made product yet industrialized. The approach to Alta Sartoria is different: we try to connect with the customer, to understand what he needs. It's a good conversation…it's based on a relationship of trust, on the dialogue that originates between the customer and our team - from the style to the tailor. It is all so mesmerizing.

SG: It is an intimate relationship, of comparison, almost a confession, through which we get to know the client and his world and he himself learns something new about himself. With Alta Sartoria we give space to the imagination and discover many very different styles. In addition, over time, we have forged a solid bond with them, and it is always a thrill to see each of our customers again during Alta Moda events, often accompanied by their children.

Talk to us about some of the specialized technical skills required to produce a couture garment for men.

DD: Alta Moda and Alta Sartoria are synonymous with experimentation. This has led us, over time, to expand our tailoring and to acquire a highly specialized workforce. With the Alta Moda project, we wish to give visibility to our country’s artisanal excellences. For this reason, in the places where we choose to show, we search for a manufacturer or a particular technique to work on.

SG: For example, for the collection presented in Venice, we worked with new materials and techniques, including new embroidery, patchwork, the use of satin, crystals, murrine and Bevilacqua fabrics. In addition, the prints evoke the landscape of Venice with breathtaking colors, mosaics of San Marco, and paintings of Canaletto.

What excites you the most about couture for men?

DD: Total freedom of expression. Alta Sartoria, as much as Alta Moda, allows us to experiment with new techniques, do research and always discover something new. It is a great stimulus for our creativity, to tell our experiences through clothes, to offer a dream, a memory. We like to communicate a lifestyle, a feeling and live it with our customers, now our friends, who participate in our events and who, year after year, love to reunite again.

What do you believe lies for the future of men’s couture in general and for Alta Sartoria specifically?

DD: Today, more than ever, fashion is an expression of the social changes and cultural advances we are experiencing. All the pieces of our Alta Moda and Alta Sartoria Collections are real forms of art that, with our work, we try to make known and pass on to future generations. Our desire is, first of all, to educate the young generations and then allow them to appreciate the huge work that these collections require: precious raw materials, attention to every single detail and the inspiration behind all the pieces, which comes from our roots, are what makes us dream.

You have been narrating your rich Sicilian roots for nearly four decades. How do you come up with different iterations of your heritage for the changing times of today?

DD: Through the combination of multiple elements: the harmony of opposites, femininity and masculinity, sensuality and austerity, black and the use of color, the sacred and the profane, the most eccentric print, simplicity, lace; we are all of this. Attention to detail, shapes and proportions are all aspects of our aesthetics and the plot of a story that began more than thirty years ago. We believe that, without a past and solid roots, there can be no future.

SG: Domenico and I observe very much what happens in the world. The reality itself requires us to evolve, and that’s normal. People change and so do their desires and needs. Everything changes and transforms itself in some way. The important thing is to never forget where you come from and which are the values ​​behind your path. In this way we try to keep up with the times, still remaining faithful to our DNA.