THE FUTURE IS NOW

Designer Matthew Williams is bringing a distinctly modern perspective to one of the most illustrious French couture houses, Givenchy.

By LAURA BOLT

It is said that some things never change, but while that might be true in some instances, the world of fashion is not one of them. As an industry, fashion’s lifeblood is in its ability to transform, to innovate, and to reflect the ideas of the present while helping us envision a new future. Even iconic brands are tasked with reinventing themselves to maintain not just relevancy, but trailblazing ability. Case in point? Givenchy, a label that seems to undergo a transformation with each new Creative Director. With upstart designer Matthew Williams taking the reins, what does the future look like for one of couture’s most legendary houses?

Givenchy is already a brand with a storied and illustrious past. Founded in 1952 by Hubert de Givenchy, it didn’t take long for the fledgling brand to attract devotees. Givenchy has been a power player for over 60 years, dominating the catwalk and seen notably on iconic figures like Jacqueline Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn. In fact, the latter’s “little black dress” in Breakfast At Tiffany’s cemented Givenchy’s reputation as chic, modern, and elegant. Over the years, creative leadership at the brand changed hands several times - including brief but memorable appearances by John Galliano and Alexander McQueen - but seemed to truly come into its own again when Riccardo Tisci took over in 2005. During his tenure, he imbued Givenchy with a newfound sensuality and a sense of dark romanticism with more than a hint of gothic inspiration. Under Tisci, the label seemed vibrant again, even youthful, especially buoyed by a Nike collaboration that highlighted Tisci’s appreciation for streetwear and kept them on par with the dominating trend in the industry. His menswear designs echoed those themes, and added a sense of whimsy and gender fluidity that brought Givenchy firmly into the 21st Century. Clare Waight Keller took over in 2017, and brought her own ideas to the table. She dialed down Tisci’s baroque sensibilities in favor of a more classic sense of femininity, but she also brought an unexpected eclecticism to Givenchy’s menswear program, which highlighted a high-end feel with a youthful insouciance. Despite positive reviews, Keller’s departure in 2020 ushered in a new age of Givenchy under Matthew Williams.

On the surface, Matthew Williams seems like a curious choice for a brand that has epitomized European high-fashion for the better part of a century. Born in Chicago and bred amongst California skate culture, Williams’ background is worlds away from the more classically trained “establishment” designers that preceded him. After a rejection from Parsons early in his career, the self-taught Williams found his way into fashion through roads less traveled. In fact, Williams’ first major creative efforts came not from being behind a fashion label, but overseeing the creative worlds of celebrities. After a number of collaborations with Kanye West, Williams worked as Creative Director for Lady Gaga, fashioning both her costumes and music videos.

Williams’ relationship to the world of celebrity gives him a distinct viewpoint, and one that harkens more to Tisci’s work than Kellers. In 2021, celebrities like Gaga and West are not only entertainers, but CEOs of their own brand, from social media to merchandise. “Fashion in general is a collaboration,” he said. “For me, my education was really costume design and collaborating with designers and photographers through the musicians I worked for.” Working with celebrities was more than just synthesizing their work into visual elements, it was an exercise in branding, world building, and how to keep your finger on the pulse of society.

While Williams’ background certainly gives him a unique vision, his perspective is undoubtedly also influenced by his relative youth. Williams represents a new breed of designer, one that found their first inspiration on the internet in the days of Tumblr and Myspace. His pre-Givenchy work includes streetwear inspired Been Trill with fellow designers Heron Preston and Virgil Abloh, and hard lined, craft-oriented label 1017 Alyx 9SM. Williams represents the kind of designer that seems uniquely bred for this moment, with clearly defined tastes, a knack for pop culture, and appreciation for hip-hop. He designs for the men who, although not necessarily athletic themselves, are excited by the idea of sports and streetwear, while still being unafraid to indulge a more flamboyant side.

Overall, one could argue that Williams’ relationship with the entertainment world and club-couture over the traditional fashion establishment was an asset to his appointment, and a sign that luxury brands are acknowledging that the future is not just inspiration and skill, but the ability to absorb and reflect a time when the zeitgeist means continually hitting the refresh button. To succeed now, let alone become a visionary, inspiration must be not a point, but a panopticon.

Williams’ unconventional background gives him a radically different perspective, and affords him a fresh sensibility that is tailor-made to help him break free of any sense of overwhelming devotion to tradition he might have felt taking over a legendary brand. Because of his age, Williams is more likely to see modern designers like McQueen, Galliano, and Tisci as his inspirations over the original Givenchy, evidence that being referential means something different to a designer who was brought up online. From his vantage point, you can respect the past without needing to repeat it.

“I am looking forward to working together with its ateliers and teams, to move it into a new era, based on modernity and inclusivity. In these unprecedented times for the world, I want to send a message of hope, together with my community and colleagues, and intend to contribute toward positive change,” said Williams. Inclusivity will likely play a major role in both his designs and castings, where he will have the opportunity to build the kind of worlds he did when working with his celebrity collaborators.

Most of Williams’ future at Givenchy may be ahead of him, but if there is one thing he’s made clear already, it’s that he intends to focus on craftsmanship. “Craftsmanship is one of the most beautiful things about making clothing. I want to make clothing that has emotions and soul and feels like it’s been touched by the human hand, not that it’s been spit out by a machine or a computer or something like that. I want these pieces to feel like they’ve been worked,” he said.

Perhaps it’s the streetwear underpinnings, or the experience that creating clothes for musicians means they must be performance ready, but Williams seems poised to make Givenchy a brand that people are excited to live in. While the idea of craftsmanship and the inherent focus on artistry and manufacturing tends to tie brands to their roots, Williams also has an eye towards technology that grounds him in the digital age.

Unfortunately, while his imagination may be limitless, Williams has had to contend with parameters that no designer has been able to escape - working during a global pandemic. Without the usual fanfare that would accompany his new work, Williams has been able to make his star studded history work in his favor, with new designs debuting on some famous fans, including Lady Gaga at President Biden’s inauguration, and The Weeknd, who wore a crystal emblazoned Givenchy jacket that reportedly took over 250 hours to create at the 2021 Super Bowl. Being able to rely on his role in, and relationship to, pop culture, has given Williams a unique way to share his vision. As his new Givenchy designs began to trickle out via Instagram, it became clear that Williams is the perfect designer for this moment, savvy enough to present his vision for a new Givenchy on a monumental stage without the conventional strategies.

Reflecting on the pandemic, Williams said, “I like this idea that fashion can give us some kind of escape, and beauty, and imagination for the future that we’ll have, but still have moments of reality that ground us, in terms of clothing we want to wear and use today...You know, I think maybe subconsciously I’m just wanting security and comfort, knowing that there’s so much chaos all around. Warmth, comfort, ease.” Millennials are often cited for being a generation of increased sensitivity, individuality, and open mindedness, all qualities that reflect in Williams’ work. In a behemoth industry that has been challenged by COVID-19 to rethink core issues of sustainability, access, inclusivity, and technology, Givenchy under Matthew Williams might just spearhead a new path forward.

We’re still in the early stages of judging not just Williams’ legacy, but how powerful the incarnation of Givenchy he leads will be. As the world begins to see more of what Williams has to offer, only time will tell whether he becomes a touchstone for the next generation of designers. If his output so far is any indication however, perhaps the best is yet to come.