BEAUTIFUL STRANGER
John Galliano embarks on a journey to help us discover a new sensuality and a new sexuality by breaking down preconceived ideas of what is masculine and what is feminine.
By MAX BERLINGER
Photography JASON LLOYD-EVANS
Maison Margiela’s first Artisanal Collection signified an unrestricted foray into the territory of haute couture for men in conversation with a new masculinity in motion. Reflecting on the streetwear culture of the current menswear climate, John Galliano exercised his pyramidical approach to creation through an exploration of new values. It was an appreciation of the current evolution of male dress codes, and the desire to take it to unexplored places of craftsmanship for a young generation.
Balanced on the dangerous edge of tradition and avant-garde aesthetics, it served as a bridge from ideologies of style that we all known and are familiar and comfortable with, but then pushing those concepts into the unknown, toward the outer edges of imagination. That being said, it was rooted in something real and understandable, a form of dressing that is recognizable - but then questioned.
Galliano explodes archetypes of masculinity and gender while showing off his virtuosity of tailoring and design. His ability to combine romance and tradition is nonpareil, the results are certainly beautiful, but not in any conventional way - which only adds to their allure.
“What is sexy today?” Galliano asks. “It’s a moment to collectively redefine what it means, what it could mean today. The millennials and the Z generation - gay marriage is history, the abolition of abortion rights is history. For them. It’s like old news. So their view of the world is completely different. Of course one understands it. You can’t put yourself in those shoes of these people.”
The garments are so layered, so nuanced, that they require a deeper look. Not only that, they ask of the request that you reorient yourself and your relationship to what fashion is, what it’s used for, how it’s made, and what it means. The intricacy, techniques and time inherent to haute couture are applied to traditional ideas of male dress in a transcendence of gender-specific uniforms. It is the experimental proposal of a reimagined sexuality, sensuality and individuality for a new mentality.
“The philosophy of this Artisanal man is a proposal of how one could consider bespoke for today,” Galliano says. “That’s rooted in authenticity and that can perhaps redefine what is a new masculinity - or even femininity - through cutting.” It’s wonderful to hear the designer think about big picture ideas concerning our culture and humanity, but also bring those ideas back to his craft of cutting and storytelling through cloth. Galliano remembers a collection he made in 1996 called ‘Fallen Angels’ where he cut the sleeves on an arc, which led to a cowling on the arm. It was at that time that someone explained to him cutting on the bias, which led him to the work of Madeleine Vionnet. “I did and a whole new world opened up.”
While it’s often used in womenswear, it’s not used as much in men’s clothing. Galliano manipulates it for his own purposes, to inject a glamour into his clothes. “It’s liberating, it’s light, it gives you an illustrative line, it’s relaxed looking, sensual, louche.”
Not only did he conjure that energy, he used it to question ideas we have about modern dressing. “That street culture will always be an inspiration and an influence on us all because that’s where the energy is, that’s where the kids are, when their backs are against the wall, that energy has always influenced creation - always. It’s often effected by politics, society, it has a huge influence. It will help to shape what we consider masculine or feminine, formal or informal, in the future.”
He expressed that idea beautifully with fantastical and intricate designs both in their scope and construction. Full body rubber wader coveralls and a satin kimono shirt, a coat enclosed in plastic or a slick black leather jacket with hand-picked vents, landing finally with a crystal-embroidered silk jacquard jacket with a corset and wool trousers and sneakers festooned with glittering gemstones. It was beautiful and otherworldly. It was utterly unique, a nod to historic but also completely separate from it. It was truly forward thinking and in our world of sameness and homogeneity, it was an image and garments worth stopping to look at, closely, deeply: clothing that gives you something to think about for a long, long time.
“What I am showing is just an example of what we can achieve. I’m just trying to exercise the craft of dressmaking. We call it men’s but traditionally I’ve used it for women’s but hey, why not? Preordained conformist ideas of masculinity and femininity, what is masculine today and what is feminine today really?” explains Galliano. “I hope this is the beginning of a journey to help us discover a new sensuality, a new sexuality. Breaking down preconceived ideas of what is masculine and what is feminine through cutting skills that I have learned and I am still learning.”
